Oh man, it's starting to take shape.

Should be noted, notice the antenna hole is gone.

Filled in, not perfect, but it will be once we start sanding.

Pay no attention to the wire in the turnsignals. Still debating whether or not to fill those holes.

Engine bay pictures coming later, but panel is welded in and engine bay has been painted the final color.

eBay!: Gun to knife fight? More like an Abrams tank to a tea party. AKA, POWER AKA Shit just got real.

Remember when I said our turbocharger was broken? Like this.

So the factory turbo wasn't great to start with. It's ceramic compressor wheel would have had a hard time reaching 13-14psi and would run out of steam around 220-250hp. There is another factory Nissan turbo from the RB25 that is a common upgrade, but still with the ceramic wheel. Might hit 300hp with it. Not good enough.

So, what to do? Well we start looking for a new turbo. We want something with a T3 exhaust housing, metal compressor wheel and is made by a reputable manufacturer. So we look at factory turbocharged engines. So some homework, and we find this.

That's right. This is a 2004 Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Super Duty truck.

And this is the turbocharger from that truck. Behold, the Holset HY35 HE341 Type D.

It is conservatively twice the size of the factory turbocharger. Notice the water bottle and spray can for scale.

Massive intake and massive intercooler inlet. The downpipe side is gigantic too. 4.4 inch V-band means making a new downpipe will be easier than using a 6-bolt downpipe. All we need is a 4 inch pipe and a bender.

Again, not a trailblazer. This has been done and I'm simply applying a known formula.

That's our engine and our turbo in a Skyline chassis.

So what does it mean for us? Our factory turbo would be lucky to make 14psi before breaking. The Holset doesn't even wake up until 15psi and can flow as much as 25-30psi. We would have lucky to make 250whp on the factory turbocharger. Now, with a stock engine we can run 20psi and make 420-450whp. If we rebuild the engine with stronger pistons, rods and head studs and we can run 30psi and make 550-600whp. Not bad for $200 shipped to my door with a manifold attached.

We're now 100hp over our goal with proper tuning. With a diesel turbo, they spool fast, so we should be fully spooled by 4000 rpm, and it will hold power until 8000. This turbo will flow much more power than our engine can flow air.

This shifts our car entirely. No longer are we building a gentleman's sports car for Sunday cruises and long distance trips. We're now going full tilt boogie street bruiser. Mostly factory on the outside, but race car engine and suspension. Still good for trips, but ready to rip your face off with that skinny right pedal.

Also, having a real hard time sticking with White. A fast Datsun should be white, but a Bonkers, stupid fast Datsun might have to be cartoon Orange.

Engine: Timing belt and cleaning/painting.

So. What have we been up to over here?

We've stripped the timing side down. Only thing left is to remove the water pump and start reassembling with new components.

We've also been spending some time with paints.

Our exhaust manifold has been sanded and coated with some high temp flat black paint.

And with a new gasket, it's back on the motor.

You probably noticed our fancy valve covers. Originally a flat gold, I chose to go a little flashier.

And, installed with our freshly painted spark plug cover.

Those breathers will be removed and replaced with AN fittings. You'll notice they are not bolted down yet. Our fancy gasket set did not come with new grommets, and the old ones were hard and brittle.

Normally the timing covers would be black too. I decided against that.

I dig the gold valve and timing covers with the black plug cover.

So, we still need to bolt all this down. Install the new water pump and timing belt. Replace intake and valve cover gaskets. Get new grommets. Get new plugs. Remove the oil pan. I might see if I can find a new upper timing cover, ours is a little dented and I couldn't pop them out all the way, but it's not a big deal.

What else? We need an intake plenum and a turbocharger. We need some Jaguar puck style engine isolators. Once we have those things, and the rear sump pan we can drop the motor in. Still a long way to go to get it running, but we're moving and grooving here.

Engine: Tear down and inspection part 2.

Okay, so we had stripped down the basics that we would not be re-installing. Time to tear down the more important stuff and see inside the engine.

The broken turbocharger is off. We won't be throwing it away just yet, we might need the wastegate actuator off it. The exhaust manifold has some surface rust, but nothing that can't be cleaned off and made to look pretty with a fresh coat of paint. Also, the stud at the 2pm position is bent, but the manifold is good.

After removing the spark plug cover and coils, there was a little water on the plugs. After cleaning and removing the plugs, the cylinder tops look pretty good. Plugs were a little nasty, but they would have been changed prior to start up any way.

Our spark pulg cover is a little beat up, but a fresh coat of paint will do wonders.

Our Nissan badge is clean. We'll tape that off and paint the rest of the cover, leaving the silver and polished finish.

These valve covers are insanely clean underneath. This is not cleaned up.

The valvetrain is also spotless. I've pulled valve covers on engines with less than 20k miles and haven't seen them this clean.

So, what's next? Not pictured, I've removed both intake and exhaust manifolds. Timing cover and timing components are coming off next. Scrub down the block and heads, and paint the block, head, valve covers, spark plug cover, timing covers. Reassemble with new gaskets, install new timing belt and parts.

I need to choose a color for the engine and valve covers though.

Engine: Tear down and inspection.

So we have our engine on the stand. All in all, it looks clean and good but there is a lot of equipment that we don't need.

This is where we started on the exhaust side, and this is where we ended.

There is still some teardown to do, and you'll notice that there is a very noticeable problem in this picture. Also, note that the power steering and A/C pumps are now gone.

The turbocharger to manifold T28 flange is cracked. In fact, the studs are bent on the rear side too. meaning the manifold might be slagged as well. The plan was always to put a bigger/more efficient turbo on any way, but this means it will have to be done before the car is started. I had hoped to run the original turbo until I knew everything worked as designed.

The intake side before.

And, after.

The upper intake plenum is now gone, and will be replaced with a front facing plenum to shorten intercooler piping. The entire wiring harness is off and ready for trimming.

So far, I think we have a lightly used engine. The clutch is almost new.

Next? Pull the spark plug covers, ignition coils and spark plugs. Remove valve covers and check out the valve train. Remove the oil pan and ship it off for sump fabrication.

Check in after the valve covers are off.

Oh snap.

Another delivery.

One low mileage engine and transmission set. It's a fairly boring story.

Loaded up.

Mounted on a stand, waiting for further tear down and inspection. All signs point to a healthy engin, but we have a full timing belt and head gasket set if we need it.

A year.

It just occurred to me that I've had the Datsun for a year. It's been a crazy year. My sister got married, I had three jobs though out the year, and we went through the whole process of pregnancy and now we have a beautiful daughter.

Now would be a good time to update on where we stand and what's been going on lately.

Too be honest, haven't been working on the car much over the last 4-5 months.

The body is almost ready for primer. I need to finish this headlight bucket, and a few areas on the tail panel.

Engine bay is almost ready. I need to remove the brake hydraulic lines and the front crossmember/steering rack.

Still need to make that panel.

Interior is ready for primer, short of a good scrubbing.

We need to get the primer/paint process moving because there's big things going on.



This is inbound. Hopefully next weekend I'll be mounting it on a stand.

When it gets here, we need to be ready to prep and freshen it up. Pictured above:

• Timing belt with tensioner roller and spring and idler.
• Water pump with thermostat
• Complete headgasket set.

All OE Nissan. If we remove the oil pan and valve covers and I don't like what I see, we have everything needed to replace the headgasket and rebuild the cylinder head. The video shows our actual motor getting compression tested so we should be good, but better to be prepared.

Of course, we needed a hoist to lift said engine unto said stand. Harbor Freight comes though again.

Because it's Harbor Freight, I wound up with more than I went in for.

• Ear Muffs
• 1/2 and 3/8 ratchets
• Utility Scissors
• Screwdriver bit pack
• Air line quick release
• 3ft electrical test leads
• Screwdriver set
• 3/8 6-point Deep Socket Set
• 4 piece hook/pin set for rebuilding electrical connectors
• 40 inch creeper.

All this, for less than $150 out the door.

We have a complete wiring harness for the chassis. This goes from headlights to taillights. Our engines wiring and ECU will tap into this.

We have everything needed to run our 3/8 fuel lines from tank to engine bay. Pipe bender, pipe cutter and flaring tool. These tools will be used on the brake lines too.

Remember when we talked about the fuel surge tank unit?

Check this nifty piece of kit out. A huge 1qt Diesel spin on fuel filter with a custom fitting.

One line in, one line out and the T fitting is for the return line.

So. Tons to do this year. I have another project to finish before I work on the Datsun again, but there is going to be a lot of updates though out the year.